How to make Kalari cheese: A guide to the ‘mozzarella of Jammu and Kashmir’ — history, origin and more
Jammu and Kashmir's crispy Kalari cheese is versatile enough to feature in a sweet or savoury dish; here's how to make it at home
Australian celebrity chef Sarah Todd recently spotlighted Kalari cheese in her Instagram video, showcasing its unique cultural significance in India. Also lovingly known as the ‘mozzarella of Jammu’, this cheese has the soft, melt-in-your-mouth quality of mozzarella, encased in a firm, halloumi-like exterior. It's a must-try for anyone visiting Jammu, especially in the winter.
One of the most popular ways to enjoy Kalari is in a Kalari Kulcha, a street food staple. Allegedly originating from the Singh Restaurant in Udhampur, this dish includes Kalari cheese which is grilled on a tawa and stuffed into a kulcha (a type of bread), served with chutney or masala. This simple yet delicious snack delivers a crispy, cheesy experience that's often likened to an indulgent Bombay cheese toast.
How to make it at home
There are several varieties of Kalari, depending on the type of milk used; cow's milk Kalari is yellow, while goat’s or buffalo’s milk Kalari is white. Making Kalari at home follows an easy traditional process and only uses 2-3 ingredients. This recipe is from Bless My Food By Payal.
Ingredients: 2 cups of whey water (3-4 days old for maximum sourness), Raw milk (cow or buffalo)
Recipe: To make homemade Kalari cheese, start by boiling 2 cups of whey water (3-4 days old) and setting it aside. In a deep pan, add raw cow or buffalo milk and gently heat it — don’t boil it, just warm it enough to dip your finger in comfortably. Once the milk is warmed, remove it from the heat and slowly add the boiling whey water while stirring. After 2-3 minutes, the fat should start separating from the milk. At this point, take a handful of the curds that float to the top and shape them into small tikkis. Place them on a sieve or strainer to drain any excess water. Let the cheese sit for 3-4 days to fully dry out. Once the water stops dripping, you can refrigerate the cheese.
Pro tip: If the milk doesn’t curdle after adding the whey water (which can happen in colder weather), add a few drops of lemon juice to help it curdle. Your homemade Kalari is ready to enjoy once it’s firm and dry!
Pairings: You can pair the delicious crispy cheese with anything. The Kalari kulcha is a popular choice but you can also add some veggies and make it into a sandwich. Other options also include pairing it with a bit of hot sauce and jalapenos for an appetiser, or using it in the filling of your samosas. If you're looking for something a little sweeter, you can toast the cheese lightly and add some fresh fruit to break through the taste with a sliver of freshness. What other excuse do you need to make it at home?
History and origin
Kalari cheese has deep roots in the history of Jammu and Kashmir. It is believed to have been created by the Gujjar nomads, who have been making cheese for centuries. There are also regional variations in the production and consumption of Kalari, which affect its flavour profile. In towns like Udhampur and Reasi in the Jammu region, Kalari made by local women tends to be smaller and softer, as it is crafted from a mix of buffalo and goat’s milk.
In contrast, the nomadic Gujjars use fresh, full-fat cow’s milk to make their Kalari, resulting in a cheese with a rich, dark yellow hue. This version of Kalari, often compared to roti or chapati, is referred to as ‘Doodh Chapati’ or ‘milk bread’ due to its texture and colour.
Initially a portable food for nomadic journeys, Kalari has now become an essential part of the region's cuisine.