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Woven stories: India’s lesser-known weaves

Jan 25, 2025 09:53 PM IST

On Republic Day today, we look at the rich traditions of lesser-known weaves that are witnessing a modern revival

Indian handwoven textiles hold a poetic allure that goes beyond mere aesthetics. Each thread and pattern tells a story of tradition and craftsmanship, much like the spirit of unity and pride we celebrate on Republic Day. As Ateev Anand, founder of Re-Ceremonial puts it, "Weaves are an elegant evidence of human interaction with time and space. They carry our stories and that’s important to preserve"

Indian handwoven textiles are timeless treasures, weaving together tradition, craftsmanship, and cultural identity across regions.
Indian handwoven textiles are timeless treasures, weaving together tradition, craftsmanship, and cultural identity across regions.

Take Ilkal, a weave from Karnataka in the south, for instance. Originating in the 8th century, this weave is renowned for its distinctive red borders and intricate motifs, which have adorned women for centuries. Despite its rich history, Ilkal continues to struggle for recognition in the modern fashion landscape. Going upwards, Odisha's Kotpad is a beautiful example of sustainable fashion, using natural dyes and earthy tones that reflect the tribal way of life. These weaves are as ancient as they are connected to the land.

Moving to the west, the Tangaliya weave from Gujarat stands out with its dotted patterns that look embroidered but are woven into the fabric itself.

RaasLeela uses Tangaliya’s dotted design, turning it into a beautiful example of craftsmanship
RaasLeela uses Tangaliya’s dotted design, turning it into a beautiful example of craftsmanship

It’s simple, elegant, and a quiet reminder of how art can elevate everyday life. “More than preservation, we want to use the textile in the right way so that the artisans enjoy producing it. Giving them due credit is important,” says Hetal Shrivastav, founder of RaasLeela Textiles.

Meanwhile, in the east, Baluchari from West Bengal sees the sarees as wearable paintings. These sarees tell mythological stories through their intricate designs, making them more than just clothing.

The Kunbi weave from Goa has a rustic charm. Once worn by tribal women, it has now found its place in modern wardrobes.

Wendell Rodricks’ Kunbi Saree mixes heritage with modernity
Wendell Rodricks’ Kunbi Saree mixes heritage with modernity

On the other hand, Himroo of Maharashtra, a blend of silk and cotton, was once a royal favourite, but today it is a dying art form that needs revival.

Re-Ceremonial reimagines Himroo with a contemporary twist
Re-Ceremonial reimagines Himroo with a contemporary twist

Moving up to the mountains in the north, Uttarakhand's Ringaal, crafted from bamboo, turns nature into functional art, while far to the northeast, Mizoram’s Puan brings vibrant geometric patterns to life, woven on traditional backstrap looms.

Zo Weave highlights the simple yet elegant Puan from Mizoram
Zo Weave highlights the simple yet elegant Puan from Mizoram

Designer Malsawmtluangi of Zo Weave says, "Puan is a symbol of pride, tradition, and identity. Preserving this craft is crucial to maintaining cultural identity and fostering pride in Mizo heritage."

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