New robes for Red Square: India shines at Brics+ Fashion Summit in Moscow
The showing could be a game-changer for Indian handloom and traditional crafts in Russia, a market currently devoid of large luxury brands.
Russia has been at war, attempting to annex Ukraine, since February 2022. Its capital, Moscow, however, shows no battle scars. Crowds skid on icy patches at Red Square in winter, Christmas fairs come with hot chocolate and carousel included, the Metro is packed at rush hour, the Kremlin museum is full. It’s possible to sit down to a dinner of meaty borscht, foie gras, scallops, rabbit, halibut and botanical-infused vodka.
To see signs of change, look closer. At Gum, the showpiece shopping centre, Louis Vuitton’s flagship boutique, which stood for more than 120 years, has been replaced by a local sports brand. Amid international sanctions — the strongest from the European Union — Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Hermès, Prada and Burberry have stalled all business here, as have H&M, Ikea, Nike and Apple. Foreign tourists are warned that they must stock up on roubles; credit and debit cards don’t work because Visa and Mastercard have halted operations too.
Mercedes-Benz, the title sponsor for Moscow Fashion Week since 2011, has also exited Russia. But citizens still have money, style and a taste for the new. It’s what drew delegates from 60 countries to the first BRICS+ Fashion Summit in Moscow in November.
Brazil, Russia, China, South Africa, Argentina and Turkey each showcased a collection by a top designer. India did things a little differently.
Sunil Sethi, chairman of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), didn’t approach red-carpet or bridal favourites such as Rahul Mishra, Gaurav Gupta and Manish Malhotra. “Handlooms and traditional crafts are our USP in the international market,” he says. “Piyush Goyal, India’s union minister of textiles, has been keen to promote them internationally too. And we knew we had more to offer than just a single designer.”
Spin cycle
Ritesh Kumar, Naushad Ali, Gaurav Khanijo and Shruti Sancheti made up the India show. Each of them has been giving traditional fabrics and techniques a modern, global sensibility.
The clothes stood apart. Nagpur-based Sancheti reimagined khadi as full-length dresses, coats and layered ensembles. Gurugram designer Khanijo’s autumnal menswear gave hemp, bamboo, silk and wool a sharp, tailored avatar.
Delhi-based Kumar’s ensembles of wool, quilted khadi and silk showcased a day-to-evening transition. “It impressed me because I could see the global market for it,” Sethi says.
Ali, who works in Puducherry, presented tunics, dresses and trouser sets that drew on block printing, handwoven silk, cotton, denim and linen.
“The most exciting part about showing my work in Russia is that we’re showing in Russia in the first place,” he says. “The four of us have distinctive styles but we’re all passionate about Indian textiles and techniques. It’s our tribute to the country’s artisans. Our brands would not be possible without them.”
The show’s international appeal was not lost on the BRICS+ audience. “You could almost smell the richness of the fabric on the runway,” said Gloria Haguma, a fashion journalist from Kampala, Uganda. “The designs seemed different from Indian handlooms in the global imagination. These were contemporary, beautifully finished and so wearable.”
Well-fitted
At the Summit’s B2B showroom, it was all business, as designers, retailers, franchise dealers and creative professionals hustled for inroads into the Russian and BRICS+ markets.
Mumbai designer Shafaque Ali, 28, seemed like India’s wild-card entry. She wasn’t part of the official delegation but was invited by the Russian fashion council via business connections in Europe. Her eponymous label, less than a year old, works Indian handlooms into Western silhouettes – think backless blazers in indigo-dyed khadi. “It was incredible for a young designer such as myself to be noticed and encouraged,” Shafaque Ali said. “People who’ve seen the designs up close have said ‘We don’t have this here’, which is encouraging.”
The Summit’s panels discussed subjects ranging from AI stylists and blockchain technology to new markets, inclusivity and pre-loved fashion (in Russian, with English translations coming live via earpiece). It seems like a little bit of everything, Russia’s attempt to see what sticks as it pivots from established luxury networks.
It’s a good opportunity for India, says Rahul Mehta, former president and now chief mentor of the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI). “India is among the top five garment manufacturers in the world, but much of it is made for major brands,” he says. Decamping Western labels leave a void in the Russian market, perhaps for Indian high-street brands such as Spykar, Killer Jeans, Cover Story and Zodiac.
CMAI conducted its first international showcase of Indian brands in Dubai, just days before the Summit, to a glowing response. “I was approached by the Russian Fashion Council to discuss further cooperation between the two countries,” Mehta says. “There is a strong possibility of the Russian Fashion Council participating in CMAI’s Garment Fair in June.”
The Indian delegation, at more than 40 people, was among the largest. Jay Ishak, on the other hand, was the only Malaysia representative at the Summit. The President of the 100-member Malaysian Official Designers’ Association was looking to promote couture, streetwear and modest fashion among fellow BRICS+ nations. “The world knows London, Paris and Milan; it’s hard for smaller countries to hold their own,” she says.
A dinner held for the heads of Guatemala, Nigeria, South Africa, Costa Rica, the Philippines and Indonesia fashion weeks fostered invaluable connections. The session also taught Ishak an unexpected lesson about promotion, one India could learn from too. “Designers must have a presence beyond Instagram and Facebook,” she says. “How will you get Russian people to wear your clothes when most social media is banned there?”
For now, the war and the sanctions that have followed will, at least temporarily, shake up the fashion world order. “For the next edition of the BRICS+ Fashion Summit, India will send 20 designers, follow a theme and have more brands at the B2B showroom,” says Sethi of FDCI. “We’ve liked what we’ve seen; we’ll go back for more.”
(The writer was in Moscow as a guest of the BRICS+ Fashion Summit)
TRAVEL ADVISORY
* What is it like to visit a country at war? For one thing, there are few tourists. The US and Canada have issued travel advisories; a range of countries have refrained from advisories but have warned citizens to keep away from the border with Ukraine (where bombings continue).
* Most social media companies have left Russia or have been restricted or blocked. Hotel-booking platforms such as Airbnb, Booking and Agoda no longer operate. To access some Russian websites, a VPN is required.
* The Russian government plans to release a virtual Foreign Tourist Card to enable cashless payments, since it is unclear how long its war on Ukraine will continue (February will mark two years since the first invasion)
* Most local wi-fi networks only work against Russian phone numbers. Sim cards are available at the airport.
* Indian passport holders are advised to carry the documents submitted during the visa process. Russian immigration authorities are undertaking extra checks on Indian passport holders. Delays can last up to five hours.
* All visitors must complete a registration process with the local government within 72 hours of arrival. Hotels typically do this on behalf of their guests. Indians are advised to also register with the nearest consulate.
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