These desi designers are more famous abroad than at home. How come?

Khadi crop-tops in Spain, faux-leather hoodies in London, fairytale wedding gowns in the UAE. See how some desi labels are killing it on foreign shores

Here’s what fashion magazines aren’t telling you. Outside of the glossy world triangulated by Gaurav Gupta, Sabyasachi and Tarun Tahiliani, Indian fashion looks different on foreign shores. Smaller designers, relatively unknown in India, are in demand as far away as Russia, Spain, the UAE and the UK. They’re making luxe, sustainable dresses and jackets; chic hoodies and streetwear; and exquisite, customised wedding gowns for fussy brides. There’s unlearning on both sides – foreign clients are seeing India differently, the designers are learning what really works abroad. A look behind the seams.

Mumbai-based Shafque Ali’s designs have gone to Moscow, Milan and Paris.

Mumbai designer Shafaque Ali has created abstract versions of ikat.

Karleo Studio’s Leon Vaz creates wedding dresses and evening wear in India for UAE brides.

Shubh Goyal of Fierce London makes limited-edition streetwear for UK buyers.