Mount Fuji hikes and Kyoto nights: Japan’s new rules for tourists explained

Visiting Kyoto just got pricier—The drastic tax hike tourists won’t like.

Kyoto authorities announced Tuesday plans to hike lodging taxes, as Japan's ancient capital seeks to assuage grumbles from locals about too many tourists.

Tourists walk through the streets by Yasaka Pagoda (behind) during a visit to the city of Kyoto. (Photo by PAUL MILLER / AFP)

Lured by its myriad sights and a weak yen, Japan has seen foreign tourism numbers explode in recent years, with arrivals in 2024 expected to have hit a record of more than 35 million.

But like other hotspots worldwide such as Venice in Italy or Maya Bay in Thailand, this is not universally welcome, particularly in tradition-steeped Kyoto.

The city, which is a modest bullet train ride away from Tokyo -- with a view of Mount Fuji on the way -- is famed for its kimono-clad geisha performers and Buddhist temples.

Residents have complained of disrespectful tourists harassing the geisha like paparazzi in their frenzy for photos, as well as causing traffic congestion and littering.

For rooms costing between 20,000 and 50,000 yen ($127-317) per night, visitors will now see their tax double to 1,000 yen ($6.35) per person per night, under the new plans.

For accommodation over 100,000 yen per night it will soar tenfold to 10,000 yen. The new levies will take effect next year, subject to approval from the city assembly.

"We intend to hike accommodation tax to realise 'sustainable tourism' with a high level of satisfaction for citizens, tourists and businesses," a statement said.

- Cigarette butts -

Tensions are highest in the Gion district, home to teahouses where "geiko" -- the local name for geisha -- and their "maiko" apprentices perform traditional dances and play instruments.

Last year authorities moved to ban visitors from entering certain narrow private alleys in Gion after pressure from a council of local residents.

One council member told local media about an instance of a maiko's kimono being torn and another who had a cigarette butt put in her collar.

In 2019, the Gion district council put up signs saying "no photography on private roads" warning of fines of up to 10,000 yen.

"I appreciate tourists visiting the city, but there are also some downsides like the impact on the environment," resident Daichi Hayase told AFP, welcoming the new taxes.

"But it doesn't mean the city should impose excessive taxes. Tourists are coming despite painful inflation," the 38-year-old photographer said.

"If there's a burden on the infrastructure, I do think taxing tourists is a good idea," said Australian tourist Larry Cooke, 21.

But he said that the city had to find the "right balance".

- Fuji blocked -

Tourism has been booming for over a decade in Japan, with foreign arrivals rising five-fold between 2012 and when the Covid pandemic torpedoed foreign travel in 2020.

Since restrictions were lifted, and the government is hoping to welcome 60 million tourists per year by 2030, almost double last year's expected total.

Authorities have also taken steps beyond Kyoto, including introducing an entry fee and a daily cap on the number of hikers climbing Mount Fuji.

Last year a barrier was briefly erected outside a convenience store with a spectacular view of the famous snow-capped volcano that had become a magnet for photo-hungry visitors.

And in December Ginzan Onsen, a Japanese hot spring town with made-for-Instagram snowy scenes began stopping anyone arriving after 8:00 pm if they don't have a hotel booked.