Goa: Killing the golden goose

Unless the political-business nexus is broken, India’s tiniest state will continue its inexorable decline

As one approaches the Atal Setu, the newly constructed bridge that takes visitors into the northern part of the tiny state of Goa, one can’t help but be blown away by the view of the Mandovi river that stretches out on both sides, curving gently and hugging the green hillsides.

Locals not vested in the casino trade have been protesting and seeking to move the offshore casinos to another location but the government has been buckling under pressure from those vested since 2007. (HT FILE PHOTO)

The only eyesore is the string of offshore casinos that float on it, lining what is called the Casino road, in the otherwise calm stretch of the river, leading to severe environmental and ecological repercussions. Catering to mostly tourists, this is a major source of revenue for the government and a veritable money spinner for almost all vested. The casinos provide direct and indirect employment to a sizable number of migrants from Nepal, the North East and other parts of India.

Locals not vested in the casino trade have been protesting and seeking to move the offshore casinos to another location but the government has been buckling under pressure from those vested since 2007. In 2009-10, hopes were high when Goa’s most respected chief minister (late) Manohar Parrikar led a morcha in protest and pledged support but eventually, he too was unable to take this bull by its horns. The ₹400-odd crore generated in annual revenue for the government and the profits from the business for other stakeholders have ensured that talk of moving the casinos has remained just that. Jack Sukhija, vice president, Travel and Tourism Association of Goa (TTAG) and owner of the iconic Panjim Inn, says that many ministers have promised action on this front but nobody has delivered.

This is just one in many instances leading to an inexorable decline of Goa, which is now in danger of killing its golden goose: tourism. Officials say that in most cases, the political masters give into the usually illogical demands of the stakeholders as they fear loss of power in the next elections if they do not concede. Moreover, corruption among the political class remains a problem, with allegations often made publicly even in the legislative assembly.

A similar situation has played out with the poorly regulated and run beach shacks, which cause more damage than anything else to the environment and which many officials argue are no longer required. Senior government officials argue that the shacks are not worth the price paid by the beaches and their ecology and are a legacy from the past to provide some basic amenities to beach tourists at a time when Goa hardly had any restaurants or shops in the vicinity. These are no longer necessary as one can get virtually anything a tourist requires within a stone’s throw of the beaches today.

Every once in a while, there is a half-hearted crackdown of sorts. Recently, in one of these, 167 shacks were issued closure notices after being found in violation of the state pollution board norms but it remains to be seen how many actually close. Many officials are of the view that ideally all beach shacks in the state -- there are just over 350 — should be shuttered but again, this is unlikely. Under the guise of creating employment, they continue to operate. In reality, the employment is more for migrants as very few Goans are employed by these shacks. Although owned by locals on paper many are sublet to non-Goans and to those connected with local politicians.

Two other developments have added to the chaos in the state. Haphazard real estate development and lack of regulation have led to a situation where large parts of North Goa have lost their local flavour, feel and pace and could be anywhere in India, overrun with tattoo shops, cheap shopping and Sher-E-Punjab dhabas catering to the hordes that come in from various corners of the country. Seedy bars that flout many norms including CRZ rules abound and are money printing machines for entrepreneurs from other parts of the country who usually partner with a local to run these. These often witness small skirmishes among drunk or unruly patrons and in extreme cases deaths. The death of Sonali Phogat, a social media personality with some political heft led to the closure of Curlies, a beach shack at Anjuna after the national media gaze fell on the incident but officials and authorities argue that there are many Curlies all over the state that need to be shut. Traffic jams in these parts of the state on New Year’s and during the holiday season can give the Gurugram-Delhi NH8 traffic a run for its money!

To cater to these burgeoning numbers, the state has poured in more investment, drawn up a master plan it is trying to implement and firefighting on a daily basis as far as the state tourism authorities go. But the sheer volumes and numbers of incoming visitors and settlers are defeating these efforts. A lack of options among beach holiday destinations in India is ensuring that room rates in North Goa in particular continue to skyrocket and the state continues to outprice itself.

Authorities continue to scramble for solutions but a combination of factors is killing the state’s golden goose: tourism. With Thailand, Malaysia, Mauritius and other countries in the region permitting visa-free travel to Indian passport holders, many argue that the final nail has been delivered in Goa’s coffin. Whether it eventually sinks or swims remains to be seen.

Anjuli Bhargava is a senior journalist who writes on governance, infrastructure and the social sector. The views expressed are personal. PS: The columnist has been living in Goa for three years now and watching this play out.