Kashmir’s priorities are changing for the better

Kashmir sees signs of progress and confidence despite several ongoing challenges and a presence of terrorism

On August 5, at the break of dawn, as I stepped out of my room in Kashmir, I thought there couldn’t be a better day to grasp the ground situation there. It was the same day four years prior that Article 370 was repealed. I was a bit worried, though, given the history of protests and terrorist attacks in the region.

The people of the Valley have set their priorities afresh and are advancing towards these.(ANI Photo)

But these fears dissipated in a few minutes when I saw numerous people — several of them young women — going on morning walks along the banks of the Dal Lake. Many people were riding bicycles, and there were youngsters practising long-distance running with the aim to take part in recruitment to the armed forces.

It was 7.30 am when I arrived in Sonamarg. The Amarnath yatris had already started on their way up to the cave shrine. The Central Reserve Police Force personnel gently queried the purpose of our visit before removing the barrier in front of the helipad. The tents set up by various departments to offer services to pilgrims such as ambulance, fire and rescue, and civil defence were visible from the courtyard. There was also a mobile ATM. In about two minutes a helicopter approached from the Panchtarni side and landed. The five-passenger chopper took off soon after we boarded it. It was amazing to see the stream of pedestrian pilgrims going up and down the path to Baltal.

Soon we landed at Panchtarni, and in minutes the chopper took off with another set of passengers back to Sonamarg. The chopper brought to mind bus services like those in Allahabad and Banaras. Buses would halt at a stop, some passengers would disembark and another set would board, and they would move on. The choppers were plying back and forth with barely any break. And I had seen such crude helipads as they operate from only in African countries. Now a six kilometre trek through highly rugged terrain lay before us. The journey to the sacred Amarnath cave was challenging, but not unpleasant. Baba Barfani had melted, but in Hinduism, even the spot where an object of reverence stood is equally sacred.

On our way back, we passed the Kangan Police Academy. Three young women in white T-shirts and khaki trousers stood outside. Their attire indicated that they were recruits. They had the appearance of Valley residents. Are girls from rural areas willing to wear police uniforms now? In this the same Kashmir where I had seen widespread hostility towards those wearing khaki uniforms?

This was my third trip here in the last three years. Each time, I have seen an increase in the Valley’s confidence. They have begun publicly stating that we have suffered greatly as a result of terrorism. For the first time, we have reason to believe that Kashmir will also progress. Dhabas on motorways and commercial construction on practically every route in Srinagar attest to this. Every year, the number of tourists surpasses the previous year’s record. A businessman who owns a large handicraft company said that in the last three years, he had built relationships with people from every state in the “country”. This relationship of one Indian to another Indian breaks the separatists’ spirits. This is the same city where people used to ask whether you were from India.

This year Lieutenant Governor Manoj Sinha granted permission for the Muharram procession after 33 years, and people participated in the procession in large numbers. Even the LG himself took part in the procession. His dhoti-kurta, tilak, and thick braid are no longer unacceptable to anyone. Though Muharram was long past by the time we arrived, black Muharram flags were still flying in the Hazratbal neighbourhood.

In the same vein, on August 13 and 15, too, thousands thronged with tricolours to celebrate Independence Day, much exceeding expectations. In this same city, I had seen people waving Pakistani flags and shouting “Pakistan Zindabad” earlier.

Is this to say that everything is fine? Definitely not. The fight is still on. Three of our soldiers were ambushed in Kulgam on the day we arrived. Terrorists from across the border are not yet finished. A senior police officer said there used to be more than 100 foreign terrorists in the Valley, but that number has now dropped to between 40 and 45 thanks to joint operations by the forces. The officer said those who remain will be eliminated in due course. Terrorism is nearly everywhere these days, and no country or region is safe, but it is obvious that the people of the Valley have set their priorities afresh and are advancing towards these.

Shashi Shekhar is editor-in-chief, Hindustan. The views expressed are personal.