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Japan's best-kept secret: Meet the ‘Sea-women’, the guardians of ancient traditions

BySimran Singh
Jan 14, 2025 05:46 PM IST

The ama divers of Ise-Shima, Japan’s sea-women, carry on a centuries-old tradition of freediving for seafood, blending adventure with cultural preservation.

In the cool waters off Japan’s Ise-Shima National Park, Aiko Ohno, a seasoned ama diver, glides effortlessly through the sea. Using only goggles, fins, a weight belt, and a mesh net called sukari, she searches for urchins and turban shells. The ama, or "sea women" of Japan, have for centuries lived off the riches of the Ise-Shima waters, collecting seafood for market. For Ohno, this lifestyle is more than just a livelihood—it’s a deep connection to the sea and a tradition passed down through generations.

Aiko Ohno is among the youngest sea divers in her group. (Representational Image/Pexel)
Aiko Ohno is among the youngest sea divers in her group. (Representational Image/Pexel)

“I just love the sea and being in the water,” says Ohno, after resurfacing from her dive.

Despite the challenges posed by choppy waters—residual effects from a late-season typhoon—Ohno and her fellow freedivers manage to fill their nets in under 10 minutes. Age is no barrier to this time-honoured practice. At 46, Ohno is among the youngest in her group, with the oldest diver on the day being 74, according to CNN.

“Those who continue diving do so with smiles on their faces. I’ve learned that this might be what gives them their ikigai, or a reason to live,” Ohno reflects.

Unfortunately, the ama tradition is slowly fading. Only about 2,000 ama divers remain across Japan, and fewer young women are continuing the practice, leaving Ohno to possibly be the last diver in her generation.

While the ama culture remains a living legacy in the Ise-Shima region, tourists today can learn about it firsthand. Remote beaches across the area are home to amagoya—diver huts—where visitors can immerse themselves in the lifestyle of these resilient fisherwomen and sample their latest catch.

A hidden gem of natural beauty and spirituality

Nestled in Mie Prefecture on the eastern tip of Japan, Ise-Shima is a region where nature, spirituality, and history blend seamlessly. Lush mountains meet pristine coastlines and remote islands, creating a peaceful and slower pace of life, far removed from the busy urban centres like Tokyo and Osaka. Despite its long history as a pilgrimage site, the region remains one of Japan's best-kept secrets.

At the heart of Ise-Shima is Ise Jingu, Japan's most sacred Shinto shrine, composed of 125 shrines dedicated to Amaterasu Omikami, the sun deity. Pilgrims from across Japan visit Ise Jingu annually to seek blessings while soaking in the serene beauty of towering Japanese cedars and cypress trees surrounding the site.

The shrine complex is also the gateway to Ise-Shima National Park, which stretches over 55,500 hectares—an area roughly the size of France. Its diverse landscapes offer endless opportunities for outdoor adventures and tranquillity alike.

Shirataki Falls: The ritual of waterfall meditation

A short drive from Ise Jingu, nestled in the mountains of Toba, lies Shirataki Falls. This sacred site offers visitors the chance to partake in a centuries-old Buddhist ritual called takigyo, or waterfall meditation, where participants sit beneath the falls to cleanse their body and spirit.

“This area has been a place of nature worship for 1,300 years,” explains Shigeki Matsumoto, chairman of the Shirataki Daimyojin Shrine Association. “People purify themselves with the water, washing away distractions and aligning with a positive mindset.”

The practice is not for the faint-hearted, especially in winter, when the frigid waters can be a shock to the system. The association leads travelers through this meditative challenge year-round, offering a rare opportunity for spiritual purification and self-reflection. Afterward, visitors can relax in forest saunas to warm up.

Local guide Kosuke Nakanishi takes visitors on an exhilarating journey through the forest, across muddy tracks, and up to a stunning coastal lookout. “I like to be surrounded by nature and be active, so this is the perfect job for me,” he shares as he leads guests through the wild terrain.

Surrounded by the Pacific, Ise-Shima is renowned for its exceptional seafood, which has long been sourced for the Japanese imperial family. Today, the region’s bounty graces high-end restaurants across Japan, but there’s no better place to sample it than straight from the sea.

One standout is Ran, a restaurant perched on the edge of Ise-Shima National Park, offering panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. Here, head chef Mototsugu Yamakawa prepares kaiseki, a traditional multi-course meal that reflects Japan’s changing seasons. His star dish at the moment: black abalone stir-fried with kohlrabi.

Yamakawa is committed to preserving the ama tradition, often sourcing seafood directly from the divers, and he believes that the fresh, local ingredients are what truly elevate the flavor. “Japanese cuisine is a visual feast to be enjoyed with the eyes and a sense of the season,” he says. “The freshness is different when cooking with seafood straight from the sea, so it gives it a totally different flavour.”

Reaching Ise-Shima may require a detour from Japan’s popular tourist routes. Located a three-hour drive or train ride from Osaka’s Kansai International Airport, the region remains relatively untouched by mass tourism. This seclusion allows travellers to experience a quieter, more authentic side of Japan, where adventure, ancient traditions, and natural beauty await.

Also read: Indian influencer finds gravity-defying upside down train in Japan: 'Living in 2050'

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